Just some comings and goings...

I’m afraid that I’m still a bit burnt out from Carnival to want to write at length about it. Let me just say that it was massive, intense, an “explosão de cor e alegria” as promised by the citizens of Bahia. Highlights of my festival week include being steps away from Bono of U2, who partied it up near the Barra point lighthouse; getting waved at by Gilberto Gil, the famed musician and now minister of culture of Brazil; and finding, on one occasion, my now quasi girlfriend Tai amidst a crowd of millions. All romantic moments to be sure.

I wore a pair of light black and grey sneakers throughout the week, along with some polyester pants that I bought for Capoeira. They now occupy a dark corner of my room. Considering their present state, I’m thinking of throwing them away. They’re almost to dirty to look at or ever wear again. I would feel the same way if not for a week of showers and intense rest.

Strangely, after a month and a half of struggling through awkward moments and confused states, life here is beginning to become, of all things, normal. Getting this city wired, becoming adjusted to this new planet, this was really the first thing on my agenda. Figuring out where the buses run, how to pull cash out the bank, how to order out, these mundane tasks now slide past me with relative ease. I don’t have to go about my day sweating the small things, wondering how to communicate and interact with the world around me. It’s a relief to be sure, but also in a way a little less exciting.

My nights out have also definitely begun to diminish, as I continue slowly to dig myself into a routine. I am now content with staying home to watch a good movie on my laptop or to get some much needed rest. Aside from doing some writing, and working on a new tattoo that I’ve had in mind, the last few days have been quite free and uneventful. I took breakfast and lunch in the house, and went outside for walks every now and again. I’ve done some studying, some reading, and not much else. I feel like such an old man.

Last night, I headed out to the Rio Vermelho district to celebrate the birthday of my friend Sheila. The central praça of the neighborhood is just off the beach where a number of city streets converge. A small yellow church angled towards the main road divides the square into asymmetrical parts. Bars of varying quality line the edge, and large acarajé booth of famed appeal sits in the center. People come from all around to sample the fried shrimp and pepper laden dish made there. We sat just behind the booth at a small white plastic table, drinking cold beer and readying ourselves for cake and light conversation.

Arriving a tad bit early, I scanned the crowd for Tai and Kazu, anxious for them meet my friends and give Sheila her proper birthday dues. I had invited them earlier that day to come join in the fun. When I arrived, I brought with me a birthday cake substitute—a small donut covered in chocolate sprinkles with a pink candle on top. I was unsure whether the customary delicacy was going to be provided, and had to scramble around to various supermercados looking for something similar. Candles also proved hard to find, and I ended up with one that had the number three carved in wax on top of it. But hey, who doesn’t like to feel younger on their birthday.

Tai arrived just minutes after I sat down. As usual, her feminine charm resolved unremorsefully to take my breath away. She wore a delicately laced low cut top, a jean skirt, and cute little black shoes that drew more height to her walk. Large sea shell earrings dangled and swayed from her ears as she approached me in the crowd. The soft line of her chin and the wayward smile between were enough to invite supple kisses then and throughout the night. With her light voice playing in my ears, and with glasses raised and sweets to pass, I certainly didn’t want for lack of good company.

Having missed the last runs of city transport, I slept at Kazu’s lofty apartment that night. The view from his 20th floor balcony was incredible, offering vastly different images at dark and in the morning. With my head turned to the left I could just catch a glimpse of the breaking waters of the sea, either black or azure depending on the time of day. Following the skyline outward, endless shantytowns and apartment high rises came into view, with green space and concrete jungles weeding in between them. Black and white sidewalk stones patterned the rest of the ground. It was awe inspiring.

In the morning, I was woken by, what else, a boisterous informal football game being played out many floors below. Rubbing the sleep from my eyes, I spied the players moving briskly on a faded concrete court beside the apartment building. Most were bare foot, and all seemed intensely interested in what they were doing.

More later...