Saturday, November 8

Poverty of Mind

When it comes to my decision to stay in the Vila, I remain on the fence. On the one
hand I love my house, love how I'm not stuck in a hole in the wall apartment, and truly appreciate the fact that I'm not paying rent. Falling asleep to the sound of the waves is magical. Watching the sun tip over the island every night is almost painful in its beauty.
But what the Vila makes up for in charm it lacks in sophistication. A great majority of the people here in the Vila, especially the roaming degenerate band of alpha males, are poor. Good, ok, just about everyone is poor in Brazil. When I speak of poverty in this context, it has less to do with the pocket and more to do with the mind. Poorness of mind is the world’s true poverty and it exists in all economic circles. One universal example of this is the “don’t shit where you eat principle”. Across the board, I find that those who are poor of mind tend to pollute their own living space. In the Vila people throw trash all over the ground, allow their dogs to shit where they like, and generally lack respect for their home. Not to say this instinct is confined to the favela, poverty of mind is widespread among corporate princes, those so called masters of the universe who think they can produce, produce, produce and shit all over everything.

But I digress. I am seriously considering moving away from my home, despite the countless man hours I have put into making this place livable. Unfortunately, the root cause of the problem is the people, and they aren’t going away. I continue to have neighbors that try and exploit me. If you remember the electricity situation awhile back, where my neighbor stole the electricity from my house, and then racked up hundreds of reis in bill/late charges. Well it only seems to get worse. After much fighting, I agreed to share the electricity bill with this lacky, with me taking up the brunt of the charges and he paying the late fees. This option was more than fair, considering the late charges were HIS problem, and I was doing him a great service by helping him to pay and clear his credit-misaligned name. Well the first bill has come and he still hasn’t paid, not after repeated promises to give me the money. To make matters worse, the judge in my citizenship case just denied my rent statements, demanding that I show him an energy bill in my name to prove my residence in Brazil. That means I have to put this huge debt into my name, and lose the power position that I am currently in with this bum.

So yes, I remain torn. The good days are good but the bad days are bad. The owner of the house keeps trying to convince me to stay, naturally as it is in her best interest. Attached below are some old pictures that she sent to me of her life here back in the day. I recognize the beauty of this adventure, but unlike her, I continue to live in the real world of drug use, occasional violence, and people eying my things. Just last week, another gringo’s house was broken into. I spend most of my time outside the neighborhood working, and fear every night that I will come home to a plundered home.

So yes, oh vida mais ou menos, this whole favela life is not without its complications. I’m still not sure what I’m going to do.










18 comments:

Anonymous said...

That is really sad...it always saddens me..no matter what the economic situation, that people don't take more pride in the places they live, their homes. It always baffles me. I work at a flooring company and we have a customer that takes care of rental properties...I am always amazed at how people can trash such a nice home and feel content to leave it that way. Good luck on your decision!

Anonymous said...
This comment has been removed by the author.
Anonymous said...

An important thing to guide your decision is imagining the worst-case scenario/after effects: for example, your house does get looted while you're gone (I know there are worse things that could happen, but I'm trying to ignore those). If you lost your belongings and your hard work on the property was ruined, would you be able to start all over again in Vila? Or would you think that it was a mistake that you stayed, and you should've gotten out while the getting was good?

Ray Adkins said...

Leo,

I would get the heck out of there!
If you have a chance, do it!
Life there sounds romantic, beautiful at times but it sounds like there are risks, at a worse case scenario to your life.
Why not get to know and experience Brazilian middle class life now? If you have the opportunity!



Take care

Ray

Unknown said...

Ray I'd love to move up the ladder, but I need to make more money first. Brazilian middle class isn't so middle when your on the bottom. It's far enough away that I have to squint to see it.

Hi Mrs. Miranda. What an interesting situation you are in with immigration. So sad. I will be following your blog. Cheers.

Anonymous said...

I know this poverty of mind thing, seen it with my own eyes while in Brazil. Unfortunately its equivalent to corruption in that it invades most parts of life down there. I used to get pretty mad seeing people (especially my [ex] girlfriend) littering in their own neighborhood, on their own street!

I understand the dilemna you're in, and se eu fosse você, I would look for new digs. Back in Rio, inland that is, I was paying $95/month for rent for a kitinete. Perhaps a situation exists for a native to trade housing for English lessons. The only reason I say get out of Vila is because I agree with you, the poverty of mind thing won't go away. Best thing to do is ask yourself what you would want in a living situation had you just arrived in Salvador then go from there.

Sorte

Anonymous said...

PS - Is there any way to find out where that patchwork/painting/não sei o que came from on the wall in the picture where the previous owner is fixing something or other. Its a colorful 'daily life' kind of thing (I think its the 2nd to last picture you posted).

I wouldn't mind buying one like that. Thanks

Greg said...

Leo,

You've got a large spacious house with a great view... but you DON'T have peace of mind.

The place has a certain charm about it... the obstacle course that you need to pass through to get to your front door, the fact that the favela is "out of the way" - if you have (friendly) visitors it's because they DO WANT to see you. Even that bloody steep hill gives the place character.

BUT you need peace of mind. I can understand your wariness of the neighbours. I know you're NOT some rich gringo showing off, but you ARE different to them. You don't have an intermediary "in" with the community there like I do with Retiro. You are an outsider to them.

Unfortunately you're an outsider who is seen by them as an opportunity to exploit. In larger favelas there is much more diversity of character but your favela is SO small that they are a tight-knit community that will be difficult to become part of.

Especially now you have a regular job. Your way of life - even now - is different to theirs. They may resent you, they may think you're "playing" at "going native". I know you're not, and that your accommodation has been determined by your budget. But now is the time to move out of harm's way and rent a room in an apartment building or, if you can afford it, an apartment.

I feel better for knowing that I have a Porteiro looking after my building (and in turn my apartment) and have security guards on the street at night. I'm 99.9% sure that when I get home at night my belongings will still be there. I'm 99.9% sure that I will actually get to my front door safely. And I feel better in the knowledge that Alice has this protection too. If some day in the future you and Vivi decide to move in together you'll appreciate this for her too.

It was great while it lasted, but now is the time to move up a couple of notches.

Oh... and I'm a worse blogger than you. I haven't blogged for nearly a fortnight now - though I'm blaming it on a stinking cold that I brought back with me from the UK.

Anonymous said...

Thanks for stopping by! I started reading your blog because I am seriously trying to learn more about Brazil, since I face the very real possibility of moving there. I am assuming from the comment you left, it will not be easy for me to get my residency there. Or do you think it will be easier since I am married to Sidnei?

Leo said...

Miranda....go ask that on gringoes.com. There is a lot of informed individuals running around that forum.

Adam...that painting also caught my eye. It's no longer around the house, but I'll ask the owner where she picked it up. Maybe we can do a care package exchange, US Brazil style.

Greg...dude! Can't believe you got to go home. Keep your eye open for cheap apartments, as I really am considering a swift exit (maybe after christmas).

Ray Adkins said...

Dear Mrs.de Miranda,

You can get residency if you are married to a Brazilian, it is not too hard, just a little burocratic, what isn't?
Your husband can help you with the paper work filling when you arrive in Brazil, you need to find a "Policia Federal" office and they will help you.
Danielle, an expat from another blog just got papers to stay in Brazil with her fiance, here is the link to her blog:

http://daniellebrazil.blogspot.com/



Good luck


Ray

Anonymous said...

i would have a look around you at your neighbours, do you think any of them would choose to live in your area if they had the choice to get out?
if the answer is no, and you (with some choice to leave), choose to stay then i think you will always be considered an outsider as your motivations are different to everyone elses.

Polyana said...

é... complicado. i just stumbled across your blog and it seems like you're having a great cultural experience in salvador. unfortunately, i think housing problems are something people face world wide (ok, maybe a lot in brazil, haha) - but i also think you're going to face poverty of mind no matter where you go. i don't know what it's like in salvador, but i do know são paulo and some of minas, and you will face all sorts of dangers no matter where you are. yeah, you'll probably feel a little more secure moving somewhere else, but at the same time, as long as you're not, "that gringo" who is naive - i think that's what puts you in the spotlight, but you don't seem to be that way, having skimmed through your blog :-)

in any case, boa sorte, tenho certeza que você vai arrumar o que você precisa logo logo.

beijoss.

Anonymous said...

hey you lucky guy..did you checked out that last
post by .polyana.
in any case, boa sorte, tenho certeza que você vai arrumar o que você precisa logo logo.
follow your heart bro
Ruben from Miami Beach

markuza said...

Ironically, I feel that one of the greatest things I have learned in my time here is the 'poverty of mind' thing you described so well. I say ironically because it hasn't been a pleasant thing to find out, but I think it's one thing to know that poverty is a terrible thing- it's another and much more valuable thing to understand it more 'three dimensionally.'

I wonder if you've ever noticed this- that even if these folks don't take care of their surroundings, even the poorest amongst them tend to be super clean personally- taking multiple baths a day and wearing spotless clothes- body odor is almost non-existent here. I know lots of people back home with beautiful houses who don't spend half the time on their personal hygiene. One of the complaints the Brazilians have about us (gringos in general) is that we are slobs and we smell bad!

Isabelle Kai said...

Hey Leo,
I think you have had some really wonderful eye/heart-opening experiences living in the favelas - and those experiences will always be with you. It sounds like you are unable as of yet to leave, but you are energetically gearing up to (with the new job, potential life opportunities through the job, bringing creativity to how you truly want to live and be materially supported in your lifestyle..,)

so keep rolling with the possibilities... keep cranking the idea-machine in your head, and I believe that things will come clear in their own time. I believe that is a true blessing to know how all sorts of people live (especially as a middle/upper class kid from the US.) And there is no way better than to actually experience it... and there is no better way to help the situation (ultimately) than to have known it first-hand.

I trust your life and your path and your innate creative and longing soul.

ps there is no better representative of the beauty of hope and change than our new US President! Let's all walk down that path of personal creativity and responsibility to patiently shape the world into a place that we are all proud of.

corinne said...

Leo,

I lived in a favela in Rio for 2 years - most of that time for research. Although there were great things about living there, I was glad to live elsewhere. My concerns weren´t so much poverty of the mind - although that definitely was there, it was more infrastructure (nice to walk to the bus stop without getting mud all over the back of your pants) and drug trafficking. And the noise.

If I were you, I would try to find new digs.

nickdag said...

I love your "poorness of the mind" definition.

Your blog is completely inspirational, and I find myself mesmerized.