Thursday, April 30

An Inconvenient Two

Look. Salvador, it’s a beautiful place. From the emerald sway of the palm trees that line the All Saints Bay, to the soft pastel colored churches that fill the Pelourinho—Salvador is a city of light, a place infused with the energy of a Northeastern sun. As you sit at Porto do Barra sipping a chilled coconut with your feet tucked in the sand, the light breaking through a clear and honest blue sky will change you, inspire you, lead you to move, to dance, to sing. It is a place of escaping energy, where the people become a creative machine, filtering the weekend sun into movement, and bright eyed Portuguese that seems to float in the air. It is the land of the morena, her full lips and dark smile, an allure drawn out in the samba, as she sways, her braids flying through the air. What a place this is, its colors, its cobblestone streets, lighthouses, and walkways by the sea. Bela, ela, this city, what a place to be.

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Look. Salvador, it’s an ugly place. From the dark stains of sewage that line the All Saint’s Bay, to the prostitutes, thieves, and wicked intentions that fill the Pelourinho—Salvador is a city of darkness, a place dried and cracked by a Northeastern sun. As you sit in Rio Vermelho, sipping a chilled beer with your feet stuck to the pavement, the night breaking through a dim and dishonest sky will change you, strike fear into you, lead you to watch, to cringe, to cling. It is a place of unrealized dreams, where the ex-slaves scrape to survive, of political misalignment, where the whites build their walls, smiling, eating their sushi from behind. It is the land of the branquinho, his thin lips and snide smile, a power drawn from generations, he plays, sharp cracks of a whip flying through the air. What a place this is, its colors, its trash filled streets, potholes, and corruption by the sea. Feio ele, this city, what a place to flee.

5 comments:

Anonymous said...

Just saw the film "O Pai O" and it speaks directly to this post. Thanks for your interesting point-of- you!

Greg said...

I agree Leo, Salvador is a city of contrasts. It really is "Beauty and the Beast".

There are "chic" areas where the buildings are modern, well-designed/maintained and have a good surrounding infrastructure (e.g. Alto do Itaigara, Ondina).

Then you go down to Cidade Baixa/Comercial and see the run-down areas - which house a number of buildings that are mere shells waiting for land-prices to increase. Ironically, this actually adds to the charm of Carlinhos Brown's Museu du Ritmo.

And of course, you don't need to go far to see the favelas clustered on the edges of the main highways.

When I went to Belo, the favelas were conspicuous by their absence - I'm sure they exist there but are not so prominent.

However, I think that all thse things combine to form a rich tapestry upon which Salvador life is woven. I found Belo to be somewhat lacking in atmosphere.

Pedra said...

It's interesting how when you first get to Salvador you only see part one. After spending some time there you get exposed to part two. And I think that one's ability to stay there long term involves being able to see part one again after rolling around in part two. I wasn't able to do that and that was one of the reasons I left.
-Cheryl

Adam said...

Great observation, Cheryl. I pretty much lived in part two (although not in Salvador) and I was amazed that even if all Brazil would be, is part two...I'd still want to be there (I'm hoping to remove the T from that last word)..

Nice post, Leo. I'll give it a shout out on my Salvador site.

Anonymous said...

Great juxtapositions here, Leo. Your word choices really work to evoke those two sides of Salvador. Nice phrasing, too.

I look forward to reading more =)

Congrats on the Dragons job! From the looks of your summer itinerary, seems like it'll be pretty awesome.

Thanks, too, for the link to HoboBob--his writing is very different from anything I've ever seen.

Boa viagem,
Aichlee