Sunday, August 3

Divertir


A couple of days ago, I decided to descend the steps of my “tree house” apartment and take a walk. It was just after mid-day, and I was tired of being cooped up inside. Before stepping out, I slipped on some minimalist tropical gear—my board shorts, haviana sandals, and sun block to discourage a tan. Heading east out of Vila Matos, I started trekking along the beach front. It was a Sunday, and the sand was packed with soccer matches, sunbathers, and kids playing along the shore.

About five minutes into my walk, I noticed some tiny steps that lead up a hill opposite the beach. I took a look at the trail suspiciously. The foliage was dense and the destination unfamiliar, and I was a bit worried about being assaulted or robbed should I decide to ascend. On the side of the trail hidden amidst the rocks were small candomble offerings of flowers, food, and gifts—a bequest to the African gods that still rule the heart of this syncretic city. Reining in my courage, I eventually set forth into the greenery and started climbing into the unknown.

As part of my typical Brazilian street or nighttime routine, I removed my shirt to display my tattoos. I have noticed that looking men in the eye, walking upright, and showing my bee stripes (i.e. tribal ink) has kept me out of trouble. In an inner-city environment, it is important remain alpha, especially in sketchy night time situations. Put simply, unless a thief is exceedingly well armed, they tend to prey on the weak. Looking like you could be trouble is a way to avoid falling into it, and I continue to develop this survival tactic on the streets of Brazil.

After having gotten lost on a number of trailheads, I eventually made my way to the top of the hill. At about three hundred feet above sea level the view was just stunning, a stark compilation of sea breeze, sunshine, and city lines. I realized, smiling to myself, that life is the pathway to awe, a gift worth breathing in to the very last molecule.

Looking east towards Africa, I thought about the last six months I have spent in Brazil. I realized that things are beginning to change for me, that I am starting to enjoy this new world that I have made for myself on the edge of the South Atlantic. The initial shock of moving to a foreign country has slowly begun to ware off, replaced by newly won friendships, a greater handle on Portuguese, and a contentment with my subsistence in this land. I still worry about landing the right job, finding the right girl, and being the right person, but I realize now that such things are possible, and that with time my world here is only going to get bigger.

Colbert Report on Latin America and Brazil. For some reason I can't embed this, so check out the link here:

Watch Me

Hilarious!

4 comments:

Liana said...

olâ!!
Cheguei de casualidade aqui, mas entendo perfeitamente bem o que vc sintiu!
Sou Argentina e tenho 1 ano e meio aqui e sei que ser branquinho em Salvador é foda! Morar no paraíso tem seu preço né?
Vc é de onde?
Sds!

Ray Adkins said...

Leo,

Should I call you Mr.Ambassador? perhaps, Sr.Embaixador? well, I've written before and I will say it again, I reeeeally enjoy your blog!!!
Besides the fact that what you write is fascinating, I hope you realize you are a talented writer, your writing style makes one relive your experiences with you...it makes it really captivating and interesting.
Thanks for the Colbert report link, I usually watch it but had missed that day...hilarious...
Keep up the great work!

Take care

Ray

Leo said...

Ola Lilis.....

Seja bem vindo aqui, viu! Ser um branquinho em Salvador é foda sim, mas eu tou me divertindo. Seu blog parece massa. Que pena eu não posso ler espanhol. Grrrr.

Ray...thanks so much man for the compliment! It makes me feel so good to know that other people enjoy my little corner of internet paradise. Inspires me to keep at it...so obrigadissimo. hehe

Anonymous said...

Cool blog you have here! ExpatBrazil had a link to it so I thought I'd take a gander. I tried the same thing when I lived in Rio for 6 months, walking around with my tats showing, but seeing as how I'm on the skinnier side, I'm not sure I actually intimidated anyone, lol. One thing I did practice was watching how the Brazilian guys walked to try to pick up the same rhythm...nonetheless, people continued to stare at me. Fazer oq, né?

I'll put you on my links page. Abraços